Sno-scoot track replacement instructions:

Below we have provided detailed instructions for removal and installation of a Yamaha Sno-scoot track. At any time, you can hover your mouse over the small pictures to see large photos, which point out fasteners and parts to remove and install during the process. If you follow our instructions, this procedure isn't tough, but typically takes a couple hours to complete. If you have questions about any of the steps listed below, please give us a call or send us an email.

Step 1:


Remove the cowl (body panel) from your machine. It is held onto the frame with five bolts. One bolt is at the very front of the machine, while the other four are located on the running boards.

Step 2:


After removing the cowl, the next step is to remove the exhaust system. First remove the muffler, which is held on by three bolts. With the three bolts removed, slide it out of the rubber exhaust joint that connects it to the header pipe. Next, remove the two bolts that connect the header pipe to the engine's cylinder. Then remove the two bolts that hold the middle of the header pipe to the exhaust bracket. The header pipe then slides out of the chassis.

Step 3:


1988

1989/1990

After removing the exhaust system, remove the rubber air duct hoses on the left of the machine. The hoses are pointed out in the diagram above. The air hoses are different from 1988 and 1989/1990 models. See the diagram above to see which parts to remove for each year. For clarity, the tubing clamps are not pointed out in the diagrams.

Step 4:


After removing the rubber air ducts, remove the airbox in its entirety. It is fastened to the machine by a single bolt and a pipe clamp. The airbox and fasteners are pointed out in the diagram above.

Step 5:


After removing the airbox assembly, remove the carburetor, carburetor box, and reed cage intake boot. You do not need to disconnect the throttle or choke cables to do this. The carburetor is held in place by the rubber boots on either end. Loosen the pipe clamps holding the rubber boots to the carburetor, slide out of place, and hang the carburetor by its cables on the other side of the machine, as shown in the picture above. Next remove the carburetor box, which is held in place by a single bolt at the bottom of it. Next remove the reed cage intake boot, which is held in place by four bolts. The reed cage can be left in place, as it is likely that you will need to replace the gasket between it and the cylinder if it is removed. All the mentioned fasteners are pointed out in the diagram above.

Step 6:


The next step is to remove the hoses connected to the engine oil pump. Above you will find a labeled picture to aid in reassembly after the track is replaced.

Step 7:


The next step is to remove engine cooling air intake duct on the right of the machine. This part is held in by three bolts, which are pointed out in the diagram above. You will notice that our machine was missing one bolt, but the hole for this fastener is still pointed out. Once the bolts are removed, the duct can be pulled off the engine and will slide out of the chassis.

Step 8:


The next step is to remove the brake cover, located on the right of the machine. Remove the three bolts holding the cover, then the cover will pull straight off.

Step 9:


The next step is to remove the brake caliper and brake disk. Remove the three nuts holding the brake caliper itself, then slide the brake disk and rotor off together.

Step 10:


The next step is to remove the rear shocks absorber's bottom mounting bolt.

Step 11:


The next step is to remove rear suspension pivot arm bolts. These bolts go through either side of the frame and are pointed out in the diagram and picture above. These bolts can be a little tricky, as once the bolts are loosened, nothing stops the shaft with the bolts threaded into them from turning. If you have access to one, we recommend using an impact wrench to remove these bolts. If you don't, loosen one bolt, then retighten it slightly, which will allow you to loosen the other side without the shaft spinning. If this does not do the trick, you may also have to put slight slide pressure on the rear suspension pivot arm to hold the shaft in place.

Step 12:


The next step is to remove the right engine bracket. This bracket is held in place by four bolts, two of which are connected to the engine crankcase. The bolts are pointed out in the pictures above.

Step 13:


The next step is to remove the cross frame engine bracket. This bracket is bolted to the engine with two bolts, and to the frame with three bolts. These fasteners are pointed out in the pictures above. Remove these bolts and this part will slide off the engine and out of the chassis. After removing this bracket, the engine and rear suspension are no longer fastened to the frame.

Step 14:


The next step is to disconnect the spark plug wire, remove the spark plug, and disconnect the stator/generator wires from the main wiring harness. These items are pointed out in the pictures above. Removing the spark plug will ensure it is not broken in the next step.

Step 15:

After following the steps above, your engine and rear suspensions assembly will simply slide out and away from the rest of the chassis. To show how easily this is done, check out the video below.

Step 16:


With the track and engine assembly removed, the next step is to remove the right drive shaft mounting plate. This is found on the right front of the track assembly and the bolts are pointed out in the pictures above.

Step 17:


The next step is to unbolt and remove the shock absorber mounting bracket from the rear rear suspension assembly. The bracket is helt in place by four bolts, which are pointed out in the pictures above.

Step 18:


Next, fold the tailflap forward, as shown in the picture above. With that out of the way, loosen the rear bogie wheels' axle nut and the track adjuster nuts. These nuts are are pointed out in the pictures above.

Step 19:


Next, slide the rear bogie wheels forward. The assembly may need to be tapped with a hammer and piece of wood to free it up. With that slid forward, pull the front drive sprocket shaft assembly out.

Step 20:


Next, slide out the old track and slide on the new one. When sliding on the new track, please be aware that it is directional. Molded into the track is an arrow pointing forward. Make sure that the arrow is pointing in the direction that the track will rotate when riding. A picture of the arrow is shown above.

Step 21:


Next, reverse steps 17 through 1 and reinstall all the parts. Once the new track is installed, it is important to retension the track properly. With the track in the air, loosen the rear bogie wheels' axle nut and tighten the rear tensioners until you get a 1" gap between the track and the track sliders when pulling with about 20 pounds of force on the center of the track. After doing this, retighten the rear axle nut. A picture showing proper track tension is shown above. After riding the machine for a couple hours, be sure to repeat this step, as the track will stretch slightly after the first use.

Step 22:


Next, ride your Sno-scoot and have fun! Pictures pointing out such fun are provided above. If you have any questions about this procedure, please give us a call at 603-225-2779 x 254 or send us an email.